Chesterfield, England’s Twisty-Spired Church

Chuck & Lori's Travel Blog - Chesterfield's Parish Church of Saint Mary's and All Saints

It is perhaps one of the most unusual sights in all of the United Kingdom. The 230 foot tall twisted spire of The Parish Church of Saint Mary and All Saints in Chesterfield is visible for miles around (English weather permitting, naturally), and has evoked “what on earth”‘s from craned-neck tourists for six and a half centuries.

The church it adorns is the parish church of Chesterfield; it is not a cathedral. The church and its peculiar tower were built in the 14th century. Like most churches in England, it was originally built to be a Roman Catholic church, but was appropriated by the Church of England in the 1600’s after Henry VIII’s rift. It remains an Anglican church today, but as of Autumn, 2014, sports an interesting “We Are Catholic” information sign near the front door.

Chuck & Lori's Travel Blog - Church Interior
Interior of Chesterfield Parish Church of Saint Mary and All Saints

Being a 700 year old church in the center of an English city with a population of 70,000 and situated near the Peak District National Park would make the church a noteworthy tourist site. Indeed, it’s a lovely little church inside, with some interesting art and friendly attendants. But the main draw, not surprisingly, is its signature tower and spire. In TripAdvisor, the church is listed as “Chesterfield Parish Church/Crooked Spire”, together ranking as the #3 attraction in Chesterfield. There are periodic daily tours of the spire: if you visit, check the board upon entering the church to find the time of the next tour.

The spire’s spin is so purposeful as to make you wonder if it is intentional, but it’s not. Originally built straight, the spire soon began to both warp and lean. It was originally thought to be the result of poor workmanship–the black death had claimed the lives of so many skilled construction workers–and inadequately seasoned wood. Modern assessments, however, point toward the lead used to cover the spire: the sun unevenly heats the lead, with the south-facing side of the spire heating and expanding slightly more than the north side, causing the whole structure to twist over time.

Folklore explanations also abound. In one very peculiar tale, a virgin was married in the church and the spire twisted around to have a look: legend has it the spire will twist back the next time a virgin is married in the church. Seemingly, virgins in Chesterfield are rare; it would be very interesting to learn how such tales come to life.

Chuck & Lori's Travel Blog - African-Themed Madonna and Child
An African-Themed Madonna and Child

 

Chuck & Lori's Travel Blog - Chesterfield's Twisty-Spired Parish Church
Chesterfield Parish Church of Saint Mary and All Saints

http://www.chesterfieldparishchurch.org.uk/

Leave a Reply